Anti-theft Rotary Hammer

Rotary Hammers incorporate anti-theft protection.

April 19, 2005 - Rotary hammers utilize CODE! anti-theft protection system, which operates via one-touch IR remote control to protect tools against unauthorized use. Owners can enable or disable multiple CODE!-protected rotary hammers using one key. Each tool can be assigned its own key for single user or multiple keys for multiple authorized users. Integrated LED signals whether tool is enabled or disabled, and tool retains status in case of power failure...

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Negoso Rotary Hammer

Some FAQ on Rotary Hammer

Q: What do "SDS, SDS-MAX and Spline Shank" stand for?
A: SDS stands for Schnell Drilling System or Slotted Drive System. All modern rotary hammers use one of three types of bit: SDS, SDS-MAX, and SPLINE SHANK.
SDS is also and confusingly called "SDS-Plus" and often written "SDS+". They are all the same SDS shanks are slotted and have curved recesses all of which lock nicely into the chucks of "SDS rotary hammers." They are the smallest of the three shank types, so the biggest diameter SDS bits you'll find are about 1-1/8 inch.

SDS-MAX is the "super colossal" version of SDS-Plus. SDS rotary hammers drill and pound bigger holes (up to 2") with longer bits (up to 28" or so). SDS-MAX hammers have lots of power, so not only is the hammer drilling faster, the chipping function is extremely useful. Most of these large rotary hammers, however, cannot be used as plain drills like their smaller (SDS+) cousins. They have just two "modes": "hammering with rotation" or "hammer only," and the same is true of almost all Spline Shank hammers.

Spline Shank is a bit more confusing because the drill bits for this system have a different-looking shank than the chisels. The drill bits have fins (or "splines") at the end of the shank while the chisels and other hammer tools have a hex shank with a deep indent on one side for the lock. But if the bit says "spline," it is, and it'll fit these tools.

Q: Can I fit a larger size chuck to my drill?
A: No. The design and specification of a drill motor is such that it is directly related to the maximum size of hole you can drill. Fitting a larger chuck would overload the motor and cause damage that would not be covered by any warranty.

Q: Can I fit a standard drill bit into my rotary hammer chuck?
A: Yes, but you have to use an auxiliary 3 jaw chuck adapter and you do it.

Q: Should I buy a hammer drill or a rotary hammer?
A: It depends on your job requirements. Although both tools are designed for drilling in masonry, they accomplish this in different ways. Most hammer-drills utilize a spring-loaded mechanism that requires the operator to place pressure on the bit. These bits have cutting edges that cut with light, breaking blows while they rotate. Hammer-drills are designed for small holes or medium-sized holes in soft aggregate concrete.

Rotary hammers deliver constant, heavy mechanical blows regardless of operator pressure supplied. They use a piston mechanism instead of a special clutch. And what they deliver isn't a "jab" any more -- it's a real punch. You can drill much bigger holes, much faster. Rotary hammers have such force, in fact, that the usual masonry bits are no longer adequate. Their smooth shanks would be pounded loose from the tool's chuck in a few seconds. They need special bits which can lock into the rotary hammer, and keep on spinning while smashing away.The operator simply has to provide enough force to hold the tool in place. Rotary hammers use bits that drill all masonry products and even hard aggregate concrete, granite or quartz. Also they can be outfitted with chisels for chipping masonry.

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Q: What is a depth rod?

A: It is a Rod mounted to the drill and lets you know when the bit reaches the desired depth.

Q: Some rotary hammers has the capability of variable speed. What is the advantage of having it?

A: Variable speed selection allows you to adjust the drill for specific jobs. Use high speed for small holes and low speed for large holes.

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Rotary Hammer Safety Tips

A rotary hammer is designed to drill into steel, concrete, brickwork or hard masonry of all types. It is important that you read the instructions before using a rotary hammer. The tool could injure you and damage property if used inappropriately.

Warning: Plan your work and do not use the tool on ladders. A rotary hammer should only be used on a proper work platform or scaffold.

You must use the following safety equipment:
Goggles or safety spectacles,
Ear defenders for noise pressure,
Face mask if drilling dust producing material,
Gloves.

Before using the rotary hammer:
=======================
Check the cables, plugs and all equipment is sound and ready for use.
Do not use any cables, plugs or equipment that is damaged or looks faulty.
Check that the plug is correct for the electrical supply being used and that is without damage.
Do not use taped or repaired cables connections.
You must wear a dust mask and goggles ( or spectacles ) whenever you are cutting a material that causes dust.

Rotary hammers are likely to cause noise in excess of 85 DB(A), it is therefore necessary to wear ear defenders.

Any person working adjacent will also need to wear ear defenders and possibly a dust mask.

Always use the stabiliser and side handle. Adjust it for comfortable working position.

Only use the correct type of SDS or appropriate drill type for the rotary hammer.

Never try to enlarge an existing hole the drill will jam.

Make sure that the drill has the capacity to drill the size of hole you require.

Always disconnect the drill before changing the drill bits or chisels.

If you are drilling through and outside wall, make sure that the rubble or debris from drilling
will not harm any person or property on the other side.

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Do not use the drill in an explosive, gas concentrated or inflammable environment. The sparks from the armature could cause any explosion or fire!

Understand all of the controls and functions of the drill before use.

** Electrical Safety **

For 240 Volt rotary hammers:
Use a residual current devices ( RCD ) plugged directly into a fused 240 volt power socket.
This will help to minimise the risk of an electrical shock by disconnecting the power if an earth
fault or short circuit is detected.

The RCD will need to have the test button pressed from time to time, at least before starting each work task. Reset the RCD according to the manufactures instructions.

The RCD will not protect you from a shock if you drill into the extension or appliance cable.
If you need to use an extension cable, do not use a cable longer than 30 metres ( 100 feet )
because of voltage drop.

Plug the drill into the RCD supply.

Lay any extension cables carefully to avoid sharp objects, liquids or positions that traffic might
traverse over if you work outdoor.

Unroll the extension fully or the cable can overheat and catch fire!

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For 110 Volt rotary hammers:
------------------------------
Plug the transformer into a fused power socket with an earth potential.
Make sure the transformer is the correct type and current load for the machine. Make sure that the transformer is sound and undamaged.

Do not use a long extension because of voltage drop, 30 metres maximum

Lay extension carefully to avoid sharp edges and liquids. If vehicles are likely to traverse the
area do not lay cable on the ground level.

Using Machine:
===========
Check that there are no hidden gas pipes or electric cables with pipe or cable locator.

This is a powerful tool. Switch it off if the tool sticks or seems unsafe.

Make sure you are using the right drill bit or chisels.

Tighten up your hands and arms muscles to get used to the torque of the machine.

Withdraw the drill to clear the dust and debris from the hole.

If the drill sticks, stop the machine and unwind by hand.

Do not try to reverse the machine when it is running.

Be careful when blowing chips or debris from the hole.

Keep the air vents on the machine clear and unblocked.

After work:
========
Clean your work platform, the rotary hammer.
Put the rotary hammer back to its case and put it away.
If the machine does not work properly, return it to the stores or hire supplier.
Note them all the problems of the rotary hammer.

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Rotary hammer "difference"

A hammer-drill uses 2 grooved plates that rotate opposite of each other. When they slip and the grooves connect, a bang is heard. This bang "hammers" the chuck, which in turn, drives the bit into the masonry material.

A rotary hammer is extremely more efficient than a hammer drill, because it drives a piston that pounds the chuck with measurable impact energy.

There's really no question which is better. Hammer drills are loud and cheaper. rotary hammers are bigger, quieter, more expensive, and do the job in 95% less time, with less effort.

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